SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Updated May 16th, 2019: For the London finale of SPECTRE, Daniel Craig’s James Bond grabbed yet another pair of suede boots from his closet. This time they were the Sanders and Sanders Playboy chukkas in Snuff suede. He wore them with his Neil Barrett trousers, N.Peal mock turtleneck sweater and John Varvatos blue suede racer jacket.

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

 

And of course there’s the whole Steve McQueen connection to this style of boot. He favored the original Playboys from Hutton of Northampton and wore them in The BlobThe Thomas Crown Affair and, more famously, snuff suede ones in Bullitt. So one pair of boots, two style icons? Sounds like a good deal!

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

 

Features Wanted for the SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas
  • Dark brown suede uppers
  • Two eyelet lacing
  • Thick crepe “bumper” sole in dark grey

Obviously, the truly distinguishing characteristic of the Playboys is their sole. The other interesting thing is just how many “Playboys” are out there. Basically, the boot’s bumper crepe sole was patented in 1936 by Hutton of Northhampton. They fought off imitators for decades until closing their doors in 1990. Hutton recently made a comeback under new ownership and it looks like they’re going to be producing some new styles. But no Playboys.

And why is that? Well, during a period of financial difficulty in the 1970s, Hampton sold the patent for the crepe sole and trademark rights to a Swedish company. Sometime later, another company called “Playboy Footwear” bought the license and brand name from them. Playboy Footwear now has a broad range of shoes and boots. But the Original Playboy Chukkas are still front and center. However, you can’t buy them on their website. More on that below.

So who can use the “Playboy” name and the bumper crepe sole in the UK? It looks like almost anyone. Including Sanders and Sanders, who in all fairness, have been producing this style of boot for decades. But also British Walkers and the Gothic Shoe Company. And we haven’t even gotten to George Cox Pop Boys yet ….

If this kind of background info interests you, then take a look at this thread on AJB007. For me, I think that’s enough history for now. On to the alternatives!

 

The Screen Accurate Option
Sanders & Sanders Playboy Chukka Boot in Snuff Suede: £199.00/approx. $250.00

 

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Getting the original brand of chukkas from SPECTRE isn’t really that expensive. Especially when you consider the price of some other screen-accurate clothing! Sanders still has plenty of sizes left on their website. Mason & Sons also has some sizes left for £190.00. They’re expecting a full re-stock at the end of the May. Next UK has a decent range of sizes in a custom brown color for £180.00/$261.00. They actually look pretty close to the Snuff in the online pics.

 

Best Option for the SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas
Citi Shoes British Style Chukka in Brown Suede: $35.99 to $99.00/£35.50 to £67.00

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Here’s an interesting one. There’s not much information about the manufacturer. But the chukkas are genuine suede and they have 5 stars after seven reviews. Plus, the color looks very close to the Snuff shade we want. Almost all sizes are in stock on Amazon USA where the average price for this colorway is $50.00. Which is also great news! But, sadly, they’re almost completely sold out on Amazon UK. I’m looking to see if I can find another source for them there.

 

Under $100
Rocker British Style Brown Suede Chukkas: $69.99

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Hmmm. These only have 3.5 stars after two reviews on Amazon. But they claim the uppers are genuine suede. Could be a roll of the dice. Or it could be a decent boot for under seventy bucks. Sizes are getting low. And they do recommend ordering one size down from your normal size.

 

The Original British Walkers Playboy Chukka Boot in Brown Suede: $99.99

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Another brand using “Original” and “Playboy” in the name. British Walkers seems to be making a real effort to tap into the street-wear crowd, if the photos on their website are anything to go by. Amazon U.S. still has a decent selection of sizes left, with most going for the full $99.99.

 

Under $200
Delicious Junction Bullitt Suede Boots in Brown: £89.99

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

An old popular alternative that seems to have come back. They have a genuine suede upper, synthetic crepe sole and they’re made in Spain. Amazon UK has them for the lower price. But you can also get them direct from Delicious Junction for £89.00. Unfortunately, I can’t find anywhere in the U.S. that sells them.

 

British Walkers British Collection Playboy Original Chukka in Brown Suede: $200.00/£158.00

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

A more expensive alternative from the same British Walkers as above. This pair are closer in color to the Snuff. They have the genuine suede upper, leather lining and (I think? It’s hard to tell) real crepe sole. Sizes 7.5 to 14 are in stock on their webpage.

 

The Investments
Herring Shoes Mustang Desert Boot in Snuff Suede£190.00/$212.00

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Handmade in Northhamptonshire, with a full leather lining and natural crepe sole. And they’ve almost managed to make a bumper sole look sleek. But the size selection is getting a little thin. If you’re looking to invest in this style, and have problems with the fit (or possible durability) of the Sanders and Sanders, this is your best choice. Update: There have been some reports from customers that the Herring Mustang is a re-branded Sanders & Sanders boot. I’m looking into this. Update 2: The Mustang is currently sold out on the Herring website. But they are expecting a restock in May.

 

George Cox Pop Boy Brown Suede Chukka: £215.00

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Some shoe makers leverage their heritage, tracing their history back a hundred years or more to establish their credentials. George Cox is also over a hundred years old. But its modern history really started in 1970s London. That’s when Cox became the shoe maker for the city’s exploding punk rock scene. Today, they boast of collaborations with streetwear brands such as A Bathing Ape, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons. So their Pop Boy, while an iconic style, is a relatively sedate model for them. All sizes are available on the George Cox website.

 

The Original Playboy Chukka in Brown Suede or Cognac Suede: €229.00/$263.35

affordable alternatives SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

Remember that story in this post’s intro about Playboy Footwear? And how you couldn’t buy those boots from their website? Well, AJB007 forum member welshboy78 found a dealer that is a little more flexible. However, they are running very low on sizes. And what’s so great about these? Playboy Footwear states that the boots suede uppers are hand lasted to natural rubber crepe soles. The jury is still out on whether these are actually a Goodyear welt construction like the original “Originals”.

 

Have some suggestions for alternatives for the Bond’s SPECTRE chukkas? Leave them in the comments! I’ll continue to update this post as new options appear. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for more style inspiration remember to check out Iconic Alternatives on Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest!

Iconic Alternatives

The search for classic and affordable menswear, inspired by the style icons of today and yesterday.

10 thoughts on “SPECTRE Sanders and Sanders Playboy Chukkas

  • May 17, 2019 at 5:22 am
    Permalink

    I’m also one of those that bought the sanders and sanders, in quite heavy on my heals and they wore down very quickly, I replaced them with the delicious junction, which have lasted much better, the suede is not as high quality but fine for this price point.

    Reply
    • May 17, 2019 at 5:23 am
      Permalink

      Thanks for the insights Chris!

      Reply
  • September 7, 2017 at 10:22 pm
    Permalink

    Has anyone tried the Herrings ? They look to be on the same level of quality as the Sanders … but do the Herrings have issues with a fast wearing sole … or the rubber bumpers coming away from the suede uppers ?

    Reply
  • August 10, 2017 at 4:18 pm
    Permalink

    Re: The British Walkers version – watch out for the ruddy great big embossed logo and the side of the heel. Way to ruin a perfectly good boot.

    Reply
  • June 27, 2017 at 3:12 pm
    Permalink

    I have to agree with the comments about Sanders and Sanders. The soles are very soft and wear down much too quickly. I won’t be buying them again.

    Reply
  • April 10, 2017 at 2:20 am
    Permalink

    Never understood this choice of footwear for an urban action sequence in a film. Surely the crepe sole is wholly inappropriate for hard surfaces, why did he not choose a Dainite sole chukka in suede instead? I have the Herring Shoes Gosforth chukka in black, FYI some of Herring’s models are made for them by Loake, this one included. I bought them as an alternative to the black chukkas worn in the pre-title sequence of Skyfall.

    Reply
  • February 10, 2017 at 2:58 pm
    Permalink

    I’ve the same problem as Lewis with my sanders, the rubber “bumper” is starting to come apart, although mine are closer to 18 months old, but still disappointing considering my Ryders are still going strong after quite a few years

    I’ve also got the delicious junction Chukkas (Which is actually what the king of cool are selling as the Bullit Chukka), while the uppers are not the same quality as the Sanders, the rubber is pretty solid and doesn’t have the issues with that the considerably softer Sanders rubber does

    Reply
    • February 10, 2017 at 3:06 pm
      Permalink

      Thanks for the feedback Matt! When I update this post, I’ll make sure I include your comments.

      Reply
  • October 18, 2016 at 12:14 pm
    Permalink

    Got the original Sanders in snuff brown. Pretty comfortable, but after six months they already show loose rubbers, coming off the suede. A little disappointing considering the high price…

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *