For his first outing as James Bond in Goldeneye, Pierce Brosnan wears a pair of Church’s Chetwynd Oxford Brogues in mid-brown color called Walnut. He actually wears the shoes twice in the film. The first is when he’s playfully racing against Xenia Onatopp while simultaneously scaring the bejesus out of/seducing MI6 psychologist Caroline on the mountain roads of Monaco. We don’t actually see the shoes during Bond’s impressive display of multi-tasking. But publicity shots of Brosnan in the same outfit clearly show the Chetwynds. So it’s save to assume he’s also wearing them in this scene. You can read more about the complete look at BAMF Style.
The second time is during his infiltration of the Manticore.
Features wanted for the Goldeneye Brown Oxford Brogues
- True oxford (closed lacing)
- Wingtip brogue with medalian on the toe cap
- Five eyelets
- Mid-brown Walnut color
Although an oxford brogue looks like a typical dress shoe, it’s actually a little difficult to categorize. The closed lacing is a more formal design touch. But the wingtip and extensive broguing are more casual elements. And in the UK, it’s unlikely that Walnut color would be worn in a business setting. The U.S. is a little more flexible when it comes to wearing brown shoes with suits.
The way Bond wears them is probably the way to go. The Chetwynds work well with casual look of the chinos and navy cable knit sweater. But they’re just dressy enough to be paired with a navy blazer, khaki trousers and open collar shirt.
The Original Goldeneye Brown Oxford Brogues
Church’s Chetwynd Brogue in Walnut Calf: £450.00/$620.00
Yep, you can still get them at Herring Shoes! Handcrafted and individually burnished in the UK, they’re part of Church’s custom grade line. They currently have UK sizes 6 to 12 in stock.
Aldo Asoecia in Cognac: on sale for $59.99
If you’re not ready to fully commit to this shoe style, the Aldo’s should be good for a test run. At this price, “leather” could mean anything. I would expected corrected grain and cemented sole construction. 6pm.com has the best deal on these. But available sizing is a little scattered. If they don’t have what you need, other sizes are available directly from ALDO for $89.99.
The tan color is a little lighter than the Walnut of the originals. We’re also looking at a full rubber fore-sole and heel cap. Which actually might be preferable in wet weather. Like the Aldos above, I wouldn’t be surprised if these are corrected grain leather with a glued on sole. House of Fraser has a mix of sizes left, but it doesn’t look like it comes in half sizes.
Roland Cartier Radleigh in Tan: £95.00
Except for the six eyelets, they nailed the design of the upper. And the slightly darker brown comes closer to the Chetwynd’s Walnut. The sole is completely rubber. Which, as we mentioned, is a plus or a minus depending on the weather and where you want to wear them. Other than that, there just isn’t much info on them at House of Frasier. They have UK sizes 6 to 12 in stock. But again, no half sizes.
Dune London Rugby in Tan: £95.00
Back to a slightly lighter color. The Rugby’s have a full rubber fore-sole and heel. But a step up in price nets you a leather lining. Sizes 40 to 46 are available at the Dune London website.
Jumping across the pond for a U.S. brand …. Product page on the Florsheim site claims these are a full grain leather with kidskin leather lining. Which is nice. But they do have a synthetic sole. Currently sitting with 4 out 5 stars in the reviews. The one low score complains about the sizing (apparently they run big). The other reviews are very positive. If you’re looking for a Florsheim shoe for wet weather, you should also check out the rubber soled, pebble grain leather Lexington for $110.00.
If you really like eyelets, the Talldens could be the ones for you. A darker brown, eight eyelet model, these feature a full leather lining and a rubber sole. The product page says they’re made in Portugal. However, I can’t find any information on the actual construction. And if they’re not bragging about it, I seriously doubt they’re Goodyear welted. Maybe Blake stitched? They currently have sizes 8 to 13 in stock on the Vince Camuto website. You can also find them at Nordstrom for the same price if you want to take advantage of their shipping and returns policy. Nordstrom also recommends ordering a size down.
Herring Richmond Brogue in Tabacco Calf: £215.00/$218.00
The made-in-the-UK Richmond comes with a full grain leather upper on a Goodyear welted leather sole built on their 026 last. And while the Tabacco color is a little darker than the Church’s Walnut, I personally find it to be a drool-worthy shade of brown. At $218.00, they’re packing a LOT of value for the price.
Allen Edmonds McAllister Wingtip Oxfords with Dainite Sole in Walnut: on sale for $245.00
If you go onto the U.S. men’s style forums, you can’t avoid the love for Allen Edmonds. The McAllister is one of their classic styles, reintroduced in 2009. Handcrafted in Port Washington, Wisconsin, they come with a full grain leather upper and a Goodyear welted Dainite sole. You can also get the leather sole version in the same color for the same price. The regular price on these is $395. But they’re currently having a sale until October 25th. After that, it’s worth checking out the Allen Edmonds’ Shoe Bank site if you don’t want to pop for full retail. That’s where they sell their factory seconds at a reduced price. And by most accounts, the small cosmetic blemishes that make a shoe a “second” are barely noticeable.