I have a very strong feeling that Bond’s No Time to Die Matera suit is going to be a divisive one. As far as I can tell, it was AJB007 forum member cederic0011 that first identified the suit as a Massimo Alba design from the Spring/Summer 2019 collection after contacting the Italian design house.
If you looked closely at the product photo above (or read the caption), you probably noticed something interesting. The suit is, in fact, made from a very fine wale corduroy. And that’s why I said it’s probably going to be a “love it or hate it” part of Bond’s wardrobe. Although a corduroy suit may not be for everyone, this particular one (specifically it’s the SLOOP suit model, artic. T0301 in color U714) was pretty popular. It’s sold out almost everywhere now, with a solitary Italian size 52 remaining on Mr. Porter German site for €880.00.
Luckily, cederic0011 managed to get his hands on one. And he gave me permission to share a few photos of him wearing it with the Drake’s Crosby suede moc-toe boots (which we’re assuming are the footwear used in those scenes). Note that his is a size 52 and he’s normally a 50. So the fit is big. But he plans on getting it tailored.
Features wanted for the No Time To Die Matera Suit
- Fine wale cotton corduroy (12 to 18) in a light beige or sand color
- Unstructured and partially lined jacket design
- 3-roll-2 jacket button closure
- Flap pockets with a flapped ticket pocket
- Double vents
- 4 buttons on the cuff
- Flat front trousers with belt loops and jetted back pockets
Just a quick note on corduroy. Usually made of cotton, the fabric is characterized by its distinctive rows of “cords”. The number of cords per inch is normally referred to as the “wale”. So the higher the wale number the finer looking the fabric. In the case of the Massimo Alba suit, the corduroy is still noticeable, but it’s extremely narrow. So that’s why we’re looking for alternatives in the 12 to 18 wale range.
Best Option for the No Time To Die Matera Suit
StudioSuits Light Beige Corduroy Suit: starting at $225.00/£183.00
If you’re comfortable with going made-to-measure, I’m not sure I’d bother looking any further. The suit in the photo above is the base model. And as it stands, it’s already a darn good match. Especially that 100% cotton, 14 wale corduroy fabric. But StudioSuits allows you add a variety options to bring it even closer to the Massimo Alba. For example, you can go with a three button front (I think you’ll need to ask if you can make it a 3-roll-2) with four on the cuffs. And then add the double vent, ticket pocket and a light colored Bemberg lining. Next, you can select from a full lining (with a half canvassed construction), half lining or unlined interior, depending on the how heavy you want the suit to be. And finally, you can fine tune the design of the pants.
All those extra tweaks will raise the price. But even after adding details like pick stitching and natural shoulders, the price is still only $327.00. Obviously the key to any of this being a good value is the fit. But entering your measurements is a relatively easy process. And if you have a suit you love, they also offer a “Clone a Suit” option.
Nautica Pin Cord Suit Jacket ($79.99 to $112.76) and Pin Cord Suit Trousers ($38.69)
An off-the-rack option for bigger guys! Amazon is stocking this option. But they’re down to sizes 38 and 44 long to 48 long in the jacket and 30, 36 and 38 in the trousers. The suiting is 100% cotton. And even though they describe it as a “slim fit”, most of the customer comments state that it’s still a fuller cut. Still, it has 4.6 stars out of 5 after 9 reviews. So they folks that have picked one up seem to like it.
Indochino Tan Corduroy Suit: on sale for $299.00
A darker tan than the Matera suit. But some of you out there may like that. The real star here is the suiting. Indochino uses a super 140s, 98% cotton/2% lycra thin wale cord. So the suit has some depth and texture, but doesn’t look heavy or bulky. As with the StudioSuits option above, you can customize this one. But Indochino doesn’t offer as many options. Here you can choose between a half-canvassed or unstructured jacket with a half lining, a 3-roll-2 front and double vents. But no ticket pocket, unfortunately (unless they can add that by special request).
SuitSupply is only selling this as three-piece. So you’re getting that double breasted vest whether you want it or not. Not the end of the world, but it would’ve been nice if they’d offered it as an option to drop the price a little. Anyway, even though it’s not exactly what we’re looking for, it’s still a very nice suit. Here we’re getting patch pockets with a barchetta-style chest pocket , a two button closure and trousers with side adjusters. They’ve used an Italian fine wale 98% cotton/2% elastane corduroy from Redaelii and a half-canvassed construction. If you live with the stylistic differences, it seems like a heck of a suit for the money.
The Investment Pieces
Thom Sweeney made Daniel Craig’s navy suit for the No Time To Die Jamaica press event back in April. So there’s a slight Bond connection there. However, it’s pretty obvious this particular suit is a much darker beige than the one we see in Matera. But, again, some guys might like that. The 100% cotton corduroy is also a thicker wale, which gives the suit a heavier look that works best in the colder months ahead. As for the little details, the good and bad kind of balance out. We are getting the ticket pocket and double vents. But the jacket is only a button-two and the pants actually have an elasticized waist. Make of that what you will. Matches Fashion has Italian sizes 46 to 54 in stock. Just note that this one is definitely a slim fit.
Canali Aubergine Kei Slim Fit Corduroy Suit Jacket ($1485.00/£940.00) and Corduroy Suit Trousers ($450.00/£290.00)
Yes, it’s nearly $2000. But it’s still about fifteen hundred bucks cheaper than the Brunello Cucinelli suit I could’ve included. And I want to be thorough. Coming to us from Mr. Porter (where’s it’s almost completely sold out), this alternative from the classic Italian tailoring house uses a 97% cotton/3% elastane very fine wale corduroy. The jacket is only partial lined, which will help keep things cool. But it’s only a button two and it’s missing the ticket pocket. Plus the color is a little darker than ideal. The suit is part of Canali’s very popular Kei line. So expect a slimmer, more contemporary fit.
Bonus! A couple of boot options ….
Right now, the general consensus is that the boots Bond’s wearing in these scenes are the Drake’s Crosby dark brown suede, moc toe chukkas. You can still get those directly from Drake’s for £275.00/$395.00.
But just in case you’re looking for something a little more affordable, here are a couple of alternatives that will help you complete the look.
Eastland 1955 Edition Seneca Chukka in Bomber Brown: on sale for $89.99
I’ve had a pair of leather Senecas for years now. I wear them at least once a week and they’re still going strong. So consider that an endorsement. They design might not be a spot-on match for the Crosbys. And we’re looking at oiled nubuck rather than suede. But if you swap out those cord laces for some flat ones, the Senecas could have a similar feel. They’re on sale at Zappos right now, with almost all sizes in stock in medium and wide widths. If you do have your heart set on suede boots, you can try the Dark Olive color. Those are on sale at Nordstrom Rack for $69.97 and they look very dark. But I’ve seen them on some other websites, where they come across as more green in the product photos.
Velasca Barbéé in Dark Brown Suede: $190.00
If you don’t mind paying up a little, these made-in-Italy alternatives should do the trick quite nicely. Made using high quality “overturned” suede uppers, natural crepe soles and a Blake stitch construction, they currently have 4.5 stars out of 5 after 26 reviews. My Skyfall wingtip boot alternatives are from Velasca, and after two years of use I’m still very happy with them. I’d expect the same type of value for money from the Barbéés. Plus they offer free shipping and returns for the USA, Canada, Norway and Switzerland.
Have some ideas for the No Time to Die Matera suit? Or Bond’s suede moc toe chukkas? Tell us about them in the comments! And if you’re looking for more style inspiration, check out Iconic Alternatives on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest! You can also take a look at our Amazon Page. That’s where we’ve organized the James Bond and Steve McQueen alternatives we’ve found the massive online retailer.